Knitted Cleveland Browns Stocking Hat
January 22nd, 2008My younger brother pointed out that I've never made anything for him, so for Christmas, I decided to knit him a Cleveland Browns stocking hat. This is how it turned out.
I had made hats before, but never with vertical stripes, so I had to make that part up on my own (and it took a few attempts to get it right). To knit each color/stripe I worked a different yarn end (2 white, 4 brown, and 2 orange) and then joined them at the top. It was a lot of yarn balls to work with, but it's manageable.
I just made this hat up as I went along, but here's pretty much what I did (A printer-friendly version of this pattern is also available [pdf, 80kb], and so are more photos):
Materials
Needles: 5 double-pointed #7 needles
Yarn: To find the right color orange, I used Caron Perfect Match 100% acrylic medium (4) yarn. Their 355-yard skein was plenty, and I got one in orange, one brown and one white. Before starting, I rolled the orange skein into two orange yarn balls, and did the same with the white. For the brown, I rolled four yarn balls. I kept them all in a bag, and the hat works easiest if you keep them from getting too tangled. Also, I brought up all yarn ends through the hat, so that as I worked, all the working yarn strands were inside the hat (instead of being between you and the work).
Pattern:
Brim:
I did the brim in a solid color to give myself a foundation to work from. I think it would be neater to have the colored stripes as part of the brim, too, but that felt a bit beyond me (nor did I attempt to knit a facemask).
- Cast on 90 orange stitches (20 sts on needle 1, 25 sts on needle 2, 20 sts on needle 3, and 25 sts on needle 4)
- Knit 1, purl 1 in the round for about 1-1/2" to 2", depending on desired height
- Knit three rounds in orange (this is so when the brim flips up, the joined-in colors of the stripes won't show)
Hat Body:
Now it's time to start the colored stripes. From now on, the hat is no longer knitted in the round. Instead, one row is knitted all the way around, then the next row is purled back.
- Knitted Row (odd rows):
- Start with needle 1 (which should have 20 sts on it). Knit 3 orange sts, then switch to brown. To do this, drop the orange yarn and pick up the first brown yarn end through the inside of the hat. To twist the brown to the orange, carry the brown around the right side and then over the top of the orange yarn before starting to knit. Knit 4 brown sts.
- Switch to white (drop the brown yarn and pick up the first white yarn end [again, through the inside of the hat] and twist the white to the brown [carry the white around the right side and then over the top of the brown yarn before starting to knit]). Knit 6 white sts.
- Switch to the second brown yarn. For every switch, be sure to twist the yarns (and for the first row, make sure you bring the new yarn though the inside of the hat). Knit 4 brown sts.
- Switch to orange and knit 31 sts (3 to the end of needle 1, 25 on needle 2, and 3 on needle 3)
- Switch to brown, k4
- Switch to white, k6
- Switch to brown, k4
- Switch to orange, k 31 sts (3 to the end of needle 3, 25 on needle 4, and 3 on needle 1)
- At this point, there should be sts on all five needles (3 orange on needle 5). Now it's time to purl back.
- Purled Row (even rows):
- The first row was knitted, or worked on the "right side" (in this case, the outside of the hat). The next row will be purled, or worked on the "wrong side" (the inside of the hat). Hold the work so needle 5 is in your left hand, and purl the 3 orange sts from needle 5 onto needle 1. Then purl normally the 25 orange sts on needle 4, then the 3 orange sts on needle 3
- Switch to brown, p4 (again, be sure to twist the brown yarn with the orange)
- Switch to white, p6
- Switch to brown, p4
- Switch to orange, p31 sts (3 to the end of needle 3, 25 on needle 4, and 3 on needle 1)
- Switch to brown, p4
- Switch to white, p6
- Switch to brown, p4
- Flip the work over and continue with the Knitted Row directions above
- Continue knitting and purling consecutive rows until the hat body is about 7" tall, or to desired height
- End having just worked a purl row
Decreasing the Hat Crown:
Normally, the hat pattern I use calls for decreasing 1 st PER multiple of 10 sts PER row. So, for a hat with 90 sts casted on, there are 9 multiples of 10 on each row, so we'd evenly decrease 9 sts per row (to decrease, just knit [or purl] 2 sts together). But in this case, since the stripes cannot be part of the decreasing (they have to stay the same width), all of the decreasing will be done on the orange sts.
To start with, I did all of the decreasing on needles 2 and 4, leaving the 3 orange sts on the ends of needles 1 and 3 alone until needles 2 and 4 were down to 3 sts each.
Another note on decreasing: I chose to randomly space my decreases on needles 2 and 4, instead of spacing them evenly. I tried doing it evenly on my test hat, but it was a pain. So for this part of the pattern, I'm not giving explicit instructions. I'll tell you the number of sts to decrease in each row, and you space them out along that row however you like (just don't put them all together).
- Starting on needle 1 (having just ended a purl row), k3 orange sts
- k4brown, k6white, k4brown
- Switch to orange, k3 (needle 1), decrease 5 (all on needle 2), k3 (needle 3)
- k4brown, k6white, k4brown
- Switch to orange, k3 (needle 2), decrease 4 (all on needle 4), k3 (needle 1)
- Flip work over to purl back
- Purl 3 orange sts (from needle 5 onto needle 1), decrease 4 (all on needle 4), p3 (needle 3)
- p4brown, p6white, p4brown
- Switch to orange, p3 (needle 3), decrease 4 (needle 2), p3 (needle 1)
- p4brown, p6white, p4brown
- Flip work over to knit
- k3 orange sts (needle 1)
- k4brown, k6white, k4brown
- Switch to orange, k3, decrease 3 (on needle 2), k3
- k4brown, k6white, k4brown
- Switch to orange, k3, decrease 4 (on needle 4), k3
- Flip work over to purl back
- Switch to orange, p3, decrease 3 (on needle 4), p3
- p4brown, p6white, p4brown
- Switch to orange, p3, decrease 3 (on needle 2), p3
- p4brown, p6white, p4brown
- Flip work over to knit
- k3 orange sts (needle 1)
- k4brown, k6white, k4brown
- Switch to orange, k3, decrease 3 (on needle 2), k3
- k4brown, k6white, k4brown
- Switch to orange, k3, decrease 2 (on needle 4), k3
- Flip work over to purl back
- Switch to orange, p3, decrease 2 (on needle 4), p3
- p4brown, p6white, p4brown
- Switch to orange, p3, decrease 2 (on needle 2), p3
- p4brown, p6white, p4brown
- Flip work over to knit
- k3 orange sts (needle 1)
- k4brown, k6white, k4brown
- Switch to orange, k3, decrease 1 (on needle 2), k3
- k4brown, k6white, k4brown
- Switch to orange, k3, decrease 2 (on needle 4), k3
- Flip work over to purl back
- Switch to orange, p3, decrease 1 (on needle 4), p3
- p4brown, p6white, p4brown
- Switch to orange, p3, decrease 1 (on needle 2), p3
- p4brown, p6white, p4brown
- Flip work over to knit
- At this point, there should only be 3 sts on needles 2 and 4. Continue decreasing each row by 2 orange sts, but now include the 3 sts on the ends of needles 1 and 3. After 8 more rows, there should be only 1 orange sts on each side
Finishing
Now all that's left is to close off the top and weave in the loose ends.
- Break off all yarns, leaving about a 6" tail. Pull them all out to the outside of the hat, through the top
- Slip one orange st to needle 1 and one to needle 3, and hold the needles parallel
- Pull the orange yarn through the orange loop, and slide the orange st off the needle. Leave orange end loose for now
- Using the Kitchener Stitch (below), bind together an off the 8 brown sts. Before starting, be sure to twist the brown yarn around the orange yarn
- Switch to white (twist white and brown) and continue with Kitchener Stitch
- Switch to brown (twist brown and white) and continue with Kitchener Stitch
- Twist orange and brown and pull orange yarn through orange loop and off needle
- Pull all loose ends (top and bottom of hat) to the inside of hat to tie off and weave in
This seems a lot more complicated written out than when I was knitting. If you have any trouble, or see any errors in my pattern, please let me know. Good luck. A printer-friendly version of this pattern is also available [pdf, 80kb].
Kitchener Stitch:
Tread yarn through tapestry needle. Hold needles parallel. Pull tapestry needle through first st on FRONT needle as if to purl & leave on needle, pull yarn through first st on BACK needle as if to knit & leave on needle. *pull tapestry needle through first st on FRONT needle as if to knit & slip st off needle, pull yarn through second st on FRONT needle as if to purl & leave on needle. Pull yarn through first st on BACK needle as if to purl & slip off needle, pull yarn through second st on BACK needle as if to knit & leave on needle*. Repeat from * to * until all sts have been used. Illustrated instructions available at http://www.knitty.com/issuesummer04/FEATtheresasum04.html and http://www.stitchdiva.com/custom.aspx?id=50.
See more patterns and projects on my Knitting page.
January 23rd, 2008 at 5:35 pm
You lost me at “needles.”
This is the first time I’ve made a comment on your site, but you are definitely one that I Blogline. You’re very smart, and I always learn something on your ref questions of the week posts. Thanks!
January 23rd, 2008 at 7:43 pm
Thank you very much (however undeserved your compliments are). And yeah, sorry, this isn’t a library-related post at all. I guess I should begin with a disclaimer when I go all knitty on the people here. I’ve got a couple more knitting projects I want to post about, when I get them typed up, but in the meantime I’ll stick to librarianship*.
*When I typed “librarianship,” Firefox’s built-in spell check caught it and suggested “librarians hip.” Why yes, Firefox, we are very hip.
September 11th, 2008 at 3:02 am
Where do you join the second ball of orange yarn?
September 12th, 2008 at 2:48 pm
This hat is very cool! And I think the solid color foundation is just what it needed. (You said you thought the stripes should come on down the whole hat, but I like it as is.)
Hope I don’t offend you, but I plan to make one in Dallas Cowboy colors – blue, gray and a touch of white. Do you think the main color should be blue or gray?
Keep up the good work!
September 18th, 2008 at 5:06 pm
@sheri: the second orange yarn comes in right after you start the strips for the first time. After you finish with the brim, you continue with that orange yarn until you reach the stripes. Then you join a brown yarn, a white yarn, then another brown yarn, and after that is when you join the second orange yarn.
I hope that makes sense. It seems like there should be a much easier way to do this, but this is just the way that I came up with.
September 18th, 2008 at 8:46 pm
@Dana: I’m glad you like the hat. I think you’re right about the solid color foundation – I’d be curious to see it all stripes, but it looks just fine with the solid brim.
As for the Dallas hat, I think just trying to make the hat look as close to the helmet as possible is best. The stars might pose a problem, which is why I’m very happy the Browns have a plain helmet.
November 27th, 2010 at 3:23 pm
Hello
I want to buy that BROWNS hat. What are you asking for it???
November 30th, 2010 at 10:53 am
@Aaron: sorry, everything I make are as gifts for people, so nothing is for sale.
July 28th, 2012 at 9:09 am
I seem to be having trouble with the stripes. It says to drop the first color, but do I actually need to knit with both colors? If so, how do I hide the color I don’t want to show?
August 4th, 2012 at 8:19 am
@Carmen: I’m sorry it took me so long to reply to your message, but I was on vacation all last week. You may have figured the color change out by now, but all I did was twist the two strands of yarn together when I switched from one color to another.
Well, not twist exactly – it you’re knitting right to left, and come to the end of a color (say, changing from orange to brown), what I did was lay the working end of the orange over top of the loose end of the brown strand (crossing over the strand right to left, so the loose end of the orange dangled behind the brown knitted area), and then picked up the brown strand from the right, and continued working to the left. I know this is really confusing, but I can’t think of how else to explain it.
Crossing the orange over the brown before you drop the orange and continue knitting with the brown kind of locks them together. I don’t think it’s an official knit stitch, but it worked well. You can also see on the inside of the hat how it came out: http://www.flickr.com/photos/herzogbr/2080905022/
I hope this helps, but if I can clarify anything further, please let me know. Good luck.